New
stuff! 12/17/06- Mounted the
Grove master cylinders.
New pictures.
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appears when you hold the mouse in the lower right corner of the
picture.
12/15/06- I selected
the Grove master cylinder because it has the proper fittings at the
top and bottom to mate up with the plans designed brake pedals.
It is also over $100 cheaper than the similarly designed Cleveland
unit. Note: the Grove unit has 3/16" mounting holes, so the
hole through the pedal arm should be 3/16" instead of 1/4" on the
plans.
12/15/06- I jigged
and clamped the rudder pedal so that it was tilted 7 deg. aft and
tightened the brake pedal bolt so that the actuating arm was
parallel with the bottom longeron. I machined a stick to match
the ends of the Grove master cylinder and the dimension between the
mounting holes. The stick substitutes for the master cylinder
so that I don't heat damage the rubber seals when tack welding the
bottom bracket in pIace. I then ripped a piece of 2x4 just
wide enough that the stick centerline from pin to pin will be
parallel to the rudder pedal. The idea is to create a
parallelogram so that the brake pedal remains vertical no matter
what position the rudder pedal is in. Finally, I made a
pattern for the bottom brackets.
12/17/06- After
cutting and grinding the brackets out of .075" steel, I inserted a
wood spacer between the 2 brackets to maintain the width of the
bottom master cylinder mount plus 2 washers and also to keep them
parallel to each other. Finally, I tack welded the brackets in
place using the stick substitute (not shown) for the master
cylinder. A perfect parallelogram and the brake pedal works in
all positions of the rudder pedal!
12/17/06- Here are
the 2 brackets tack welded in place. The clevis pins are just
temporary. Before I finish weld the brackets, I will remove
the master cylinder and reinsert the stick to avoid damaging the
master cylinder.
